Once upon a time I made the most luxurious fall wardrobe companion and now I wrap myself in a cloud blanket every chance I get.
Typically I’m proudest of the more complicated pieces I’ve made, like jeans, jackets and even traditional button ups. This haori wasn’t that hard to make, it’s just the quality and richness of the fabrics and the slow process I engaged that make me particularly fond of this make.
Originally The Wiksten Haori (formerly the Wiksten Kimono) wasn’t even on my radar. Then Laura’s wool version stopped me in my tracks and I needed to source my fabrics that same day. I wanted to make mine in the same color wool, but it was out of stock, so I decided to start with a lighter weight version first. I am so very glad I did because the weight and drape of this is the perfect level of warmth that I would want for both indoors from fall to spring and outdoors during fall and spring.
I sourced everything I needed from the same place the which is a big deal. Do you ever find yourself picking a source for your next fabric purchase based on who has the most of what you need so you can save on shipping? Well Karleen at the Sewing Studio had it all, including the paper pattern, which is so lovely in and of itself.
Fabric: So I’m going to gush over both of these fabrics. They are definitely primo and made up the perfect pair. The main is this Copper linen viscose. She has it in a variety of gorgeous fall colors and it is absolutely amazing. If you look close you can see the slubby texture similar to silk noil and even akin to the viscose boiled wool blend I was originally considering. What you cannot see is how perfect the weight and drape feel. With 70% viscose it is heavier than linen and feels warm simply by weight. It also knocks down on the amount of wrinkling common with linen, but still has the breathable properties of linen to keep you comfortable. Honestly I’m trying to tell you how awesome it is and I just can’t put it onto words. The only way this fabric can have a downside is if you don’t really like it when people pet your clothes.
The lining is made of a beautiful crosshatch Ikat. Karleen sourced it from Mumbai. She actually went to India and then she had to source some of their fabrics. She has a variety of different Ikat’s to choose from, both full of rich color, or black and white. I’ve never owned an Ikat because it is a more luxurious fabric due to the weaving process. I knew I would eventually get some but I needed the perfect project for it. This was it.
The Wiksten Haori is actually fully reversible. The finishing technique is clean and beautiful on both sides. I chose the copper linen viscose as the main fabric, with the collar matching the main. You’ll notice the fabric requirements suggest more yardage for the lining than the main and that is because the collar is technically supposed to be made using the lining. So if you make it like mine with the collar the same as the main then you switch the fabric requirements for the lining and main. I really liked the pocket’s I saw on Laura’s version and as I’ve searched the hashtag I’ve seen others did it that way as well. It’s not actually part of the pattern, but I just made them the same shape as the bottom of the front bodice so it would sandwich in the side seams and hem. It is lined with the Ikat and the copper comes over the top and 1″ down into the lining side. I’m also painfully aware I rolled the cuffs one too many times when I’m wearing it right sides out.
Fitting: I made the mid-length version in a size small which is where my measurements put me (35-27-38). I initially traced the XS because this has an over-sized fit and some people have sized down for that. But with my drapey fabric in hand I determined over-sized is the fit I was going for with this one. My next one will be the cropped version in potentially stiffer fabrics and I may do the XS for that. I added 3″ to the overall length and the sleeves. I’m 6′ tall and rather proportionate. 3″ is what I typically add to tunic length tops.
When I received the fabrics, I obviously covered myself in them first and then I had a small freak out moment when I wondered if the copper would bleed to the white once washed together. So first I washed the copper alone with a color catcher. The color catcher will always pull some color no matter what, but it was only slightly pink. Next I washed a swatch of each fabric together to see what would happen. Nothing happened. So I did a happy dance, ordered some of this anyway just to be safe, and got started.
Time Investment: I took my sweet time with this project. The process was so enjoyable with these fabrics. I was anxious to wear them, but really enjoyed working with them so much I didn’t mind waiting. Even though all the edges are encased, I surged every single raw edge to prevent fraying. Once again I forgot to track cutting time, which was actually quite long because I was playing Tetris trying to see how I could also squeeze an Inari Tee out of the copper as well. The actual sewing time took me 5.5 hours.
*I received a discount for the supplies I purchased for this haori. As always I express my true honest opinions and only rave about things I love. If I don’t like something I either tell you, or I don’t blog it